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Posted

Hope someone can help....soon,

 

I've got the relay 30 blues and a dashboard in bits at home, I'm at work and thought I'd get a relacement at my local ford dealer.

 

Except, that without the part number ????? I have to be over 80 and accompanied by both parents..

 

Can anyone help me beat this good for nothing jobsworth of a parts clerk ?

 

Please...a part number is all I need.

 

Thanks guys

 

M

Posted
Although you're correct in as far as there has been a post saying relay 30 was replaced by relay 27, Relay 27 in my handbook says "Fuel Supply DOHC only" nothing to do with the mysterious powerboot relay 30 and surely a relay not fitted to Diesels. As this problem has affected both Petrols and Diesels I'm not convinced, although a problem with the fuel supply relay 27 on the petrol engine would give all the symptoms associated with relay 30 failure.
Posted

Thanks to all who poted the info.

 

I'm not even sure it's the solution to the problem, which is a totally non starting 2.8 V6. Turn the keyt and the red led on the door stays lit for 2-3 seconds then goes out. :)

 

The research I did on this forum points to relay 30 and the immobiliser issue, so I thought it was worth a shot. The keys work, the spare key does the same so I assumed it could'nt be the code, all roads lead to relay 30, which is feeling more and more like room 101 !

 

Thanks again everyone. !! ;)

 

I'll keep you posted

 

 

M

Posted
Total failure to start by immobilisation has also been linked to failure of the PCM (Powertrain control module). Pray that it's not that, because it's a
Posted

Well, looks like I'm on the bus then. :D

 

Took the fuse boxes and relay assembly as directed, great post by the way.. only to find there is NO relay 30 ! just a space where it should be. :D

 

Now I'm totally miffed.

 

Checked the manual supplement and it refers to No: 14 as the immobiliser relay, that all seems fine. No LED errors, just turn the key and various clicks from the relays but no life, !!!

 

Anyone else got any ideas ?

 

PS Relay 30 for sale, one careful owner, never used, boxed with receipt, sensible offers... :lol:

Posted

Thought it worth an update,

 

I'd read that a few peple had jump started the car and it seemed to sort this problem out.... Not with me.

 

Just frozen my family jewels off trying to get a jump from a neighbour ( :D ) to no avail.

 

So in summary:

 

There's no relay 30, physically, never mind the manual, to change.

 

The led light indicates no problem, turn the key, it stays on then goes out after a second

 

Tried the rocking forward and back, not easy on a gravel drive :lol:

 

Just about to get a 4lb club hammer from the garage... so if anyone has any suggestions on how to get a 1998 V6 2.8 Ghia x started, I'd be grateful :D

 

In the meantime, I guess it's a call to the fraud dealer to see how much they need to make up their monthly targets...

Posted

Just a thought...have you checked the obvious?...alternator..battery....main fuse feed box...etcc??..checked all the relevant cables?

 

 

Thanks Mum,

 

did all that, charged the battery, checked the fuses, one by one,...still no joy. ABS light now comes on though, but I don't think they are connected.

 

Really getting quite P**sed off now, live out in the sticks so the nearest fraud garage is 15 miles away, which ill involve a tow/trailer (automatic) to their place and no transport until they can sort it out....

 

Somewhere out there is the answer.... would a failed cell in a battery cause this ? although a jump start would pressumably circumevnt this ? any ideas?

 

M

Posted

Have you checked the voltage of the battery?....

 

On mine there are two fuse boxes under the bonnet..have you checked these?not sure if you do as you have a diff type..

 

what i would do..is take a deep breath..and recheck everything..slowly...then scream!

 

you dont need to have to take to a ford garage..you will find that many of us dont..as some of them know less than we do.!

Not sure how a failed cell would affect the battery...but if you do have a failed cell..then it might be worth replaceing the battery...are you sure that the alternator works?..im no expert and no mechanic...so please read my disclaimer below :lol:

 

 

((wheres seatkid these days???..he would know..vr6..get yer ass back on here as i know you read!! :D ))

Posted

Thanks for the advice Mum,

 

Actually drew a list up of checklist ( me being anal etc) where aboujts are the fuses in the engine bay ? couldn't see them and they are the only thing left to check,

 

On my way to the nearest motor factors to see if a new battery might sort it, you never know !

 

I'll check back in a bit to see if there's any more advice.

 

Gone past the screaming stage and in that " I do not control this2 stage, It's going to be fun trying to find a shop that sells these things, all you can get round here are tractor batteries !!!

 

A the rural life

 

:lol:

Posted

i have a fuse box right at the back of the engine bay in a silver box..the main fuse feed box is at the front..in mine it is near the washer bottle....it is black and has a thick cable going into it..it has a 150amp fuse in it which can blow......mine has gone twice..last time took out the alternator..

 

please bear in mind that i have a 1.9 TDi...

 

one thing my tutor told me last week that you can try but i havent done yet..

 

ring up a garage..Ford etc,,,,,ask to speak to someone in the workshop..tell them what is wrong and what you have tried and see if they have any suggestions..i cant promise this will work...but its worth a try..as he said..if you dont ask you will never know..it could be something very simple..or it could be something more.

 

fingers crossed for you. :lol:

Posted

Mikey, I think you need to get your fault codes read. If you disclose your approximate location maybe another member who has VAG.com can help you.

 

As an alternative there are mobile diagnosticians (not sure if that's a real word or not) who may be able to help you by at least diagnosing the fault code. Better still find a mobile auto electrician with diagnostics. The back pages of the Autotrader should throw someone up.

 

Don't assume your Ford dealer will solve your problems, unless you have previous experience of them and confidence in their abilities. They are capable of spending large ammounts of your money without knowing what they are doing.

 

Does this sound like your problem ? It's possible that the PCM is not fitted on the 2.8 - does anybody know?

Posted

Thanks,

 

Don't think it's the PCm issue as the car wonlt even turn over, turn the key and the relays click but no starter motor. Just out in a brand new battery, ready is right at the top, so the battery is ok,

 

Sounds like this relay 30 issue, but cannot find it on the board, at all !

 

Rang a local ford dealer, asked to seak to the workshop, guy sounded as though I'd asked his mum out for a date !! :lol:

 

Still trying to lacte the fuse in the engine bay that MO4 mentioned, it's my last chance before submitting to defeat. We've just moved up here so not really up on who's who in the garage services world.

 

We're in north Norfolk and garages are few and far between.

 

Listen voice in my head still keeps saying...relay 30...relay 30..... but I gather that the V6 is a beast with a law unto itself...

 

1 more hour and then it's a call to the first and nearest garage to come out and have a look, I guess.

 

I'll keep you posted.

 

Mikey

Posted
Hmmm...i can if you like speak to my tutor if you are willing to wait...as im at college this eve...he knows anything and everything about all the different engines and how to fix them....if youd like me to do this them pm me with a list of everything tried..exactly whats happeneing aswell..also car details...amazeing what you can do with a rizzla!
Posted
If the main alterntor fuse has gone (under the battery cover by the washer bottle neck) it would start with a charged up battery but quit as the battery ran flat, worth checking, but I think your problem is immobilisation.
Posted

If the main alterntor fuse has gone (under the battery cover by the washer bottle neck) it would start with a charged up battery but quit as the battery ran flat, worth checking, but I think your problem is immobilisation.

 

 

but doesnt the LED light in the door flash a code if it is immobilisation?

Posted

If the main alterntor fuse has gone (under the battery cover by the washer bottle neck) it would start with a charged up battery but quit as the battery ran flat, worth checking, but I think your problem is immobilisation.

 

 

but doesnt the LED light in the door flash a code if it is immobilisation?

 

 

which is doesn't, just behaves normally, ie comes on when you turn the key, for about 2 seconds then goes out, no other flashes or errors after that.

 

Just called a local gargage out on recommendation, says they'll pop out and have a look in a bit. I hope they can sort it out for us, I spent 3 days trying to sort it out. If anyone needs any advice on accessing the 3rd level of fuse box and relays, I can talk you through it, whilst standing on one leg blindfolded, I done it that many times.

 

But hey, at least I didn't go out and buy a battery ....doh !! yes I did ;)

 

 

I must say that this forum has been brilliant, Might even get myself a signature:

 

 

Mikey

 

;) " Cars make you poor, some poorer than others " :blink:

Posted

Mike, this post started off as a search for a part number.

 

It has made this very hard to read and digest (well I think so)

 

Could you please recap on what the original problem was and what you have checked and changed so far.

 

p.s put the vehicle details in the post or your sig.

 

p.p.s is it an auto.............me thinking auto gearstick switch.

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